Badly,
but I made it.
If I'd been writing this earlier I would have been joyful, ebullient even. But, when I went to stir in some home-mulled titanium oil paint I found it gelled into a unusable rubbery mass. I am sad... The titanium was way more watery than I expected too.
The idea is to do Square Foot Gardening and try using natural finishes to protect the wood. I bought the wood for my 6 x 4 box and although it was only $20, the whole square foot thing is turning out to be a huge money suck. So, naturally, I want my wood to last until armageddon--or at least 5 years--whatever comes first.
The idea is to do Square Foot Gardening and try using natural finishes to protect the wood. I bought the wood for my 6 x 4 box and although it was only $20, the whole square foot thing is turning out to be a huge money suck. So, naturally, I want my wood to last until armageddon--or at least 5 years--whatever comes first.
Natural finishes that are useable outside and unprotected, end up being oil/solvent mixes and lime/borax paints. Possibly green acrylics, but let's not be silly. The lime/borax mixes tend to be sacrificial coats but have the advantage of being mold and bug resistant. Borax is somewhat problematic as it's considered safe, but really the lethal dose would have to be huge. Plus, there's some thought that it might contribute to problems with long term exposure. I've always wanted to try lime paint, and the casein mix isn't too alkaline for wood.
As usual when starting one of these even remotely green projects I feel acutely my distance from California. The Hydrated lime was bloody difficult to find. Shipping ends up equalling the price of the item. I finally gave in and ordered canning lime online which is the same chemical in a smaller, more manageable amount. At first it was wonderful--the curds melted into a creamy paint. Next day, however--lime jelly.
Turns out that I needed to have added the "filler" and lots more water. So, I have another batch of curds rinsed and will try again later when the garden box is screwed together and ready to be painted.
Most of the recipes want you to curdle your own paint and perhaps that would be a good idea to try as the curds from the nonfat cottage cheese seem hard. I don't know the effect of their adding calcium to the mix...though whiting is a form of calcium isn't it? ::scratches head::
I think the next info I'll record will be about the oil/solvent mixes.
In my next life I want to be a chemist.
Recipe from The Real Milk Paint Company:
My suspicious, nay, paranoid nature suspects that the recipe is consciously vague so as to make buying their product seem appealing...but that would be suspiciously paranoid of me.
Recipe from The Real Milk Paint Company:
My suspicious, nay, paranoid nature suspects that the recipe is consciously vague so as to make buying their product seem appealing...but that would be suspiciously paranoid of me.
- 5 parts cottage cheese well rinsed, or dry curd cheese
- 1 part hydrated lime or slacked lime
- Lime-proof pigment
(some sources recommend casein powder--particularly those that sell casein powder)
- Mix hydrated lime with water to make a paste.
- Add to cottage cheese and stir in well. Leave for few hours - the cheese lump will dissolve completely.
- Select some powder pigments and add to solution (Pigment powder must be limeproof).
- Add more water if too thick; powdered skim milk if too thin.
- Strain if you want a fine paint (old nylon stocking works well).
Making the Paint
- 20% curds (quark)
- 5% lime putty
- 75% filler
- 1/3-liter water for every 1 kg of filler (chalk or whiting) Smaller amounts of pigment with higher percentages of fillers equal less intense colors
- For the curds to achieve a binding or adhesive quality they need to be combined with the lime putty. A ratio of 20% curds to 5% lime putty is an approximate guideline and doesn’t need to be exact. We’ve found that one of the easiest ways to do this is in a blender. It might be
necessary to add a little water, but try first without it. Strain the mix when
finished to remove any lumps and wash the blender immediately because lime-casein when it dries is difficult to remove. Acquiring an
inexpensive blender that is dedicated to making paint is not a bad idea. The mixture of casein and lime should have a viscous consistency and should be mixed into paint as
soon as possible otherwise it has a tendency to gel. Then add the designated amount of water to the casein-lime.
Appropedia's "Curdled Milk" recipe (uses borax instead of lime)
lots of pictures and step by step info
- 9 oz Quark (curdled milk or curds)
- 1 1/2 Tbs. Borax
- 1/4 Cup Hot water (for Borax)
- 1/2 Cup Whitening (slaked chalk)
- approx. 1/4 Cup Pigment
Covers approx. 22 feet
Slake both the chalk and the pigment the night before (add water to make a paste and let sit overnight).
The Borax should be mixed into hot water,
Mix borax into quark with blender
add whiting--mix well.
From Earth Pigments:
including the Quark making part
Tools
* Container large enough to hold over 1 gallon of liquid, with room for stirring
* Wood or plastic spoons, one large and one small
* ½ yard cheesecloth for straining
* Plastic containers such as two large margarine tubs, and a one gallon paint bucket
Ingredients
* 1 gallon skim milk (milk must be fat-free and fresh, not powdered)
* 2 cups white vinegar
* 112 grams Hydrated Lime Powder Type S* (approx ¾ cup)
* 200 grams pigment
* Water for rinsing and slaking
*If using lime putty for this recipe rather than lime powder, use twice the weight of putty and adjust any added water to create the proper consistency.
NOTE: Since quantities for dry ingredients are given by weight for accuracy, it is recommended to have a small gram scale for weighing dry ingredients.
Making Paint
For this recipe we are using fresh milk that will be turned to curds with the addition of vinegar (or lemon juice). By curdling to create Quark, the milk protein is concentrated within the curds making a stronger paint. In addition it will not be prone to mold as milk paints created from fresh milk can be.
Allow the milk to stand and warm to room temperature. It should not become warmer than 115 degrees to protect the integrity of the casein. With the milk in a large container, stir in two cups of white vinegar. Curdling will begin immediately. Allow the mixture to sit in a warm place overnight or up to two days, stirring occasionally. You will notice that the milk solids separate from the liquid, creating solid curds and liquid whey.
Assemble all your ingredients when ready to paint, as milk paint should be used when fresh for best results. Place your Ocher or pigment powder in a plastic container and mix with an equal amount of water to soak. Work the pigment into a homogenous paste where all the particles have been wetted.
Place your lime in a plastic container large enough to hold two to three cups. Be careful not to inhale dust or allow dust to get on hands or in eyes. SLOWLY pour 1½ cups of water into the lime and stir into a creamy paste making sure all the lime has been wetted.
With all the ingredients prepared, have your paint bucket ready. Line the colander completely with cheesecloth. Place the colander in a sink and pour the curds and whey into it to drain the whey off. You now have small, easy to dissolve quark. Rinse the quark with cool water to remove any residual whey and neutralize the vinegar. Allow it to drain, but keep the curds dripping rather than becoming too dry. This moisture will aid in their dissolving with the addition of the lime paste.
Gather the corners of the cheesecloth and transfer the quark to your paint bucket. Make sure the curds are small and break down any that are larger pieces. Add the lime/water paste to the curds and stir well. You will immediately notice the curds turning from a lumpy mixture into a creamy paint. If some curds do not dissolve readily, the mixture can sit for 15 to 30 minutes to help break them down. Your milk paint is now ready for the addition of your slaked pigment. Stir this into the creamy quark and lime base. You may or may not need to add additional water. All ingredients should coalesce, and the consistency should be that of light cream. Be cautious of adding too much water. Strain your completed paint through more cheesecloth or a nylon stocking. Some undissolved quark may remain. Stir your paint thoroughly and often during application. Extra paint can be stored up to several days in the refrigerator, however it will begin to separate so try to use it fresh.
The first coat of milk paint will appear thin. If your base is too absorbent, the first coat can be diluted 20 to 50% with water as a priming coat.
